When it comes to buying a luxury watch, most people assume it’s just an expensive indulgence. But the truth is, some watches can hold their value—and even appreciate over time. Whether you’re considering your first high-end timepiece or looking to add to your collection, knowing which brands and models retain value can make a big difference. In this guide, we’ll explore five watch brands with strong resale performance, how to choose wisely, common pitfalls, and tools that help track value over time.
Why Watch Resale Value Matters
Luxury watches aren’t just about craftsmanship—they’re wearable assets. According to a 2024 report by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, Rolex and Patek Philippe accounted for over 58% of the total secondhand market value worldwide1. That’s not a coincidence.
“Unlike many luxury items, certain watches can act as long-term value stores, especially when demand outpaces supply,” says Paul Altieri, founder of Bob’s Watches2.
Whether you're purchasing as a passion project or to preserve wealth, knowing what holds value can save you from expensive mistakes.
1. Rolex: The King of Resale 👑
Average resale value: 90–100% (and sometimes more)
Popular models: Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II
What to know: Rolex dominates the secondary market. The Rolex Submariner has seen resale price jumps of 20–35% over the last 5 years3, largely due to brand scarcity and global demand.
Cost to buy new: $9,100+ for a Submariner
Mistakes to avoid: Don’t assume all Rolexes hold value. Stick to steel sports models, avoid overpaying from grey-market dealers, and always verify authenticity.
🔍 Track value: WatchCharts Rolex Market Index
2. Patek Philippe: For the Patient Collector
Average resale value: 70–110% (depending on model and market)
Popular models: Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava
What to know: Patek’s high prices are often justified by limited production and prestige. A Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, originally priced at ~$35,000, has sold for over $130,000 on secondary markets4.
“You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” – Official brand slogan
Mistakes to avoid: The entry-level Calatrava often has lower resale retention. Focus on sports models for value holding.
🔍 Tool to use: Chrono24 Watch Collection lets you monitor real-time values for Patek and others.
3. Audemars Piguet: Hype Meets Heritage
Average resale value: 80–100%
Popular models: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore
What to know: AP’s iconic Royal Oak often sells above retail due to limited production and hype among collectors. The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin retails around $34,000 and has fetched up to $70,000 resale5.
Things to consider: AP is harder to purchase retail without a purchase history. Most new buyers must buy through the secondhand market.
🔍 Tool to watch: WatchCharts Audemars Piguet Index
4. Omega: The Best Entry-Level Value Brand
Average resale value: 60–85%
Popular models: Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch”, Seamaster Diver 300M
What to know: Omega offers a balance of craftsmanship and value retention. The Speedmaster Moonwatch (retail ~$6,600) retains around 75% of its value and is often cited as the best first luxury watch6.
Mistakes to avoid: Limited editions may not appreciate. Stick to timeless classics and avoid fashion-oriented models.
🔍 Track values: eBay Watch Market Insights Tool (filter by sold listings for real resale data)
5. Tudor: Rising Star in Value Retention
Average resale value: 70–80%
Popular models: Black Bay, Pelagos
What to know: Backed by Rolex, Tudor offers vintage styling with modern reliability. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight, retailing at ~$4,000, has gained cult-like popularity and strong secondary value7.
Cost to buy new: ~$3,900
Good to know: Many Tudor models hold their value surprisingly well thanks to build quality and Rolex’s marketing umbrella.
🔍 Tool for tracking: WatchRecon helps monitor listings and price trends on enthusiast forums.
Planning Before You Buy 📝
Before pulling the trigger, keep the following in mind:
- ✅ Research resale trends using sites like WatchCharts and Chrono24
- ✅ Buy from reputable dealers like WatchBox, Crown & Caliber, or authorized retailers
- ✅ Prioritize iconic models—those with historical significance tend to hold up best
- ✅ Avoid hype-based buying unless you’re ready for market volatility
Common Mistakes to Avoid 🚫
- Ignoring servicing costs: Mechanical watches may need $500–$1,000 servicing every 5–7 years.
- Overpaying: Buying above retail in a bubble market can backfire.
- Buying “limited edition” watches that flood the market and lose appeal quickly.
The Takeaway: Smart Watch Collecting = Smart Asset Building
Luxury watches can be more than just jewelry—they can act as semi-liquid assets. But not all watches are equal when it comes to retaining value. Stick with established brands like Rolex and Patek, use tools to monitor pricing trends, and buy smart—not fast. A little research can save (or earn) you thousands 💡.
FAQs
Q: What factors help a watch hold its value?
A: Brand prestige, limited availability, iconic status, condition, and demand in the resale market are key.
Q: Is it better to buy new or pre-owned?
A: Pre-owned can offer better value, but verify authenticity and service history.
Q: Where can I check real-time watch values?
A: Use tools like WatchCharts, Chrono24, and eBay sold listings.
Resources
- WatchCharts Market Index
- Chrono24 Watch Collection Tracker
- eBay Sold Listings for Luxury Watches
- Bob’s Watches – Rolex Resale Experts
Disclaimer
This article is for informational purposes only and is not financial advice. Values fluctuate, and past performance is not a guarantee of future results. Always consult with a professional before making investment-related decisions.
Footnotes
- Morgan Stanley & LuxeConsult Swiss Watch Industry Report, 2024 ↩
- Interview with Paul Altieri, Bob’s Watches Founder, via Bloomberg (2023) ↩
- WatchCharts Rolex Submariner Resale Trends, 2024 ↩
- Phillips Watch Auction Data, 2023 ↩
- WatchBox Royal Oak Market Trends, 2024 ↩
- Omega Speedmaster Resale Stats – WatchPro, 2023 ↩
- Hodinkee Review of Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (2023) ↩
