Watches are more than just tools to tell time—they’re wearable investments. While many modern timepieces lose value quickly, a select few stand the test of time, both in style and in worth. For collectors, enthusiasts, or even first-time buyers, understanding which watches tend to retain or increase in value can be a smart financial move.
In this article, we’ll explore five classic watches that are known for their long-term value, why they’re so sought-after, and how you can approach buying one with confidence.
Why Watch Value Matters (And Why It’s Not Just About the Price Tag)
Buying a luxury or heritage watch is about more than prestige—it’s about durability, craftsmanship, and legacy. Watches that hold or grow in value often share traits like limited production, brand heritage, historical significance, or high-quality mechanical movements. Many of these models are passed down as heirlooms, maintaining their function and form for generations.
Whether you're interested in collecting or simply want a wristwatch that won’t depreciate like most consumer goods, knowing which models have a track record of holding value is a strong place to start.
1. Rolex Submariner – The Icon of Enduring Value
Few watches are as recognizable—or as reliable in value—as the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953, this diver’s watch has become a benchmark in the luxury watch world.
Why it holds value:
- Rolex limits supply, especially of steel models.
- The Submariner’s design has remained relatively unchanged, making older models highly collectible.
- High demand means resale values remain strong, sometimes even above original retail prices.
Vintage Submariners, especially those with unique dials or patina, often command top dollar at auction and from collectors worldwide.
2. Omega Speedmaster Professional – The Moonwatch
The Omega Speedmaster earned its legendary status after accompanying NASA astronauts to the moon in 1969. Its reliability and connection to space exploration have made it one of the most revered chronographs in history.
Why it holds value:
- Timeless design with ongoing production for over 60 years.
- Strong fan base and brand prestige.
- Certain references—like the "Moonwatch" models—are especially prized.
While not always as expensive as Rolex models, the Speedmaster often retains 70–90% of its original value, and rare versions continue to appreciate.
3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – The Luxury Steel Pioneer
When it debuted in 1972, the Royal Oak broke the mold: a high-end watch made of steel, designed by Gérald Genta. Initially misunderstood, it is now one of the most sought-after watches in the world.
Why it holds value:
- Unique design and bold history.
- Extremely limited production.
- Consistent collector demand, especially for older "Jumbo" models.
Original Royal Oaks from the 1970s are now auction darlings, often selling for far more than their original price.
4. Patek Philippe Nautilus – A Rare Modern Classic
Also designed by Gérald Genta, the Nautilus was Patek Philippe’s answer to the luxury sports watch trend. First released in 1976, it has remained an elusive prize for many collectors.
Why it holds value:
- Scarcity due to Patek’s tight control over production.
- The brand’s marketing mantra: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe…”
- Rising secondary market prices fueled by high demand and limited supply.
Discontinued models—like the 5711—often sell for two to three times their original retail price.
5. Tudor Black Bay – An Affordable Future Classic
While not as expensive as others on this list, the Tudor Black Bay series has quickly gained respect for its build quality and vintage-inspired designs. Backed by Rolex's ownership, Tudor has become a serious contender in value retention.
Why it holds value:
- Accessible pricing for a high-quality mechanical watch.
- Strong brand reputation and growing collector interest.
- Limited edition or discontinued versions often resell at a premium.
For new collectors, the Black Bay offers a great entry point into the world of value-holding watches.
How These Watches Compare: Price, Scarcity, and Demand
Here’s a simplified breakdown to help compare:
- Most Affordable Entry Point: Tudor Black Bay
- Most Consistently Valuable: Rolex Submariner
- Most Historically Iconic: Omega Speedmaster
- Most Exclusive: Patek Philippe Nautilus
- Most Avant-Garde Design: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
One of the biggest value drivers is brand control. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet all limit supply and rarely discount, while maintaining high levels of craftsmanship and heritage. This exclusivity keeps demand strong in the resale market.
Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Watch That Will Hold Its Value
- Stick to Iconic Models
- Choose well-known models with a track record of performance and collector interest.
- Buy from Reputable Dealers
- Authenticity matters. Ensure you're purchasing from authorized dealers or certified pre-owned sellers.
- Understand Reference Numbers
- Even small differences in reference numbers can dramatically affect a watch's future value.
- Prioritize Condition and Originality
- Watches with original parts, boxes, and papers typically fetch higher prices later on.
- Avoid Trendy Gimmicks
- Fashion-forward designs may be fun, but they rarely hold long-term value.
- Consider Limited Editions or Discontinued Models
- These often appreciate faster due to scarcity, especially when demand remains high.
Final Thoughts: A Watch Worth Wearing (and Keeping)
Timeless watches do more than tell time—they tell a story. Whether it’s the Rolex Submariner’s dive heritage, the Speedmaster’s trip to the moon, or the Nautilus’s breakthrough design, these models continue to fascinate collectors and casual wearers alike.
If you're thinking about buying a watch that will stand the test of time, both on your wrist and in your portfolio, these five are some of the best places to start. And while no investment is guaranteed, history suggests these watches are more than just stylish—they’re smart.
Resources and Citations
- Rolex Official Website: https://www.rolex.com
- Omega Watches: https://www.omegawatches.com
- Audemars Piguet: https://www.audemarspiguet.com
- Patek Philippe: https://www.patek.com
- Hodinkee Watch Reviews: https://www.hodinkee.com
- WatchTime Magazine: https://www.watchtime.com
Disclaimer – This content is for informational purposes only.
